A Slow Boat Down the Mekong: Faster than Rhapsody, But Who’s Counting?

When you hear "slow boat down the Mekong," you might imagine a leisurely, tranquil journey, gently drifting along one of Southeast Asia's most famous rivers. "Slow Boat" is not just a descriptor, it is what these boats are called. And sure, it's all of that—unless you're comparing it to our sailboat, Rhapsody. Then it’s more of a brisk jog. For two days, Bob and I embraced the role of passengers, a rare treat for sailors, who are used to being the captains of our own chaos.

Our adventure began in Chiang Khong, Thailand, with a shuttle bus ride that took us across the Friendship Bridge, built by China, into Laos, a smooth transition into what would be a two-day aquatic journey.

 The boat itself was a pleasant surprise, equipped with tables for group seating and lounge areas that allowed Bob to stretch out and ease his back. Not quite the "pack them in cattle car" experience we feared, but also not so luxurious that we felt out of place. Just right.

For the first stretch, we followed the border, a liquid line dividing Thailand and Laos, before veering deeper into central Laos, bound for the historic town of Luang Prabang.

The Mekong: Not So Meandering Here

The Mekong, at this point, is anything but a lazy river. With rapids, whirlpools, and eddies keeping us on edge, it was an exhilarating ride. The morning chill had us bundled up in blankets provided by the crew—I may have commandeered two—but by lunchtime, the sun warmed the river, and the blankets were cast aside.

Part of the wonderful lunch we were served. Dragonfruit and mangos, absolutely delicious! 

Village Life on Display

The children greeting the boat

We made our first stop at a village perched on the river’s edge. The villagers, accustomed to the daily parade of tourists, welcomed us warmly. The children, in particular, were eager to grab our hands and lead us back to the boat. Whether they were seeking connection or expecting a reward was unclear, but their enthusiasm was infectious.

Sitting under his house, watching the tourist parade march by

Village on the hillside 

By evening, we reached Pakbeng, our halfway point. This quaint riverside town offered a comfortable hotel and a chance to unwind after a day on the river. 

Our hotel for the night, lots of steps to get up there

Day Two: A Chilly Start, a Second Village, and an ATM Adventure

Our second village stop was a bustling hub of traditional weaving. Villagers from surrounding areas had gathered, lining the streets with vibrant textiles, each hoping to make a sale. It was a colorful and lively scene, though it felt a bit like running a gauntlet of eager merchants. The craftsmanship was impressive, and while the setup felt a bit commercial, the artistry was undeniable.

Dam Concerns: Progress and Its Price

As we neared Luang Prabang, a massive construction site came into view—a dam being built across the river. The sight sparked a flurry of questions about the environmental and cultural consequences, but answers were nowhere to be found. What would this mean for the river's future, the fishermen, and the iconic slow boats? We could only speculate as we floated by.

Payment Problems: Cash or Chaos?

One of the more "exciting" moments came when we realized the tour company didn't accept credit cards. This revelation, delivered about three hours into the trip, led to a frantic counting of cash—USD, Thai baht, Lao kip, you name it. Despite our best efforts, we came up short. No worries, they said, we could pay in Pakbeng. This involved a tuktuk ride to an ATM, which Bob heroically volunteered for, only to return empty-handed because, of course, both ATMs were out of cash.

The solution? Pay in Luang Prabang. Simple, right? Except for the minor inconvenience of everyone else in the van having to wait while Bob tried three different ATMs before finally striking gold (or rather, kip).

The Final Stretch

Just before Luang Prabang we stopped at the Pak Ou caves.

Filled with statues of Buddah and other deities 

I love the slight smirk on this one's face

The trip concluded with porters efficiently transporting our luggage up the hill to waiting vans. Their ability to carry multiple bags at once was nothing short of impressive. Once aboard the van, we were dropped off at the wrong location, but a kind travel agent helped us find our way to our Airbnb.

Despite the small hiccups, the two-day journey was a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. It was a joy to be passengers, enjoying the scenery, the company, and the onboard hospitality. Being on the water again, albeit on a different kind of vessel, reminded us of the unique charm of river travel. And yes, even the "slow" boat was faster than Rhapsody.

Pushing off from the village