Monday, October 13, 2025

Townsville City, Willie Wagtails, and Boatyard Blues: Our Unexpected Stop in Australia

Did we plan on being in Australia now? No.
Are we enjoying it? Yes. 
Well, for the most part… 
Right now, Rhapsody is hauled out at Rosshaven Marina in Townsville City —yes, Townsville City , because apparently naming a place “Town” and “Village” wasn't enough—waiting for some repairs. Being at the whim of other people's schedules under the unrelenting tropical sun is… let's just say character-building (and yes, sun hats are essential survival gear ). Yesterday, a breeze finally stirred, and for two glorious minutes, it felt like victory. Then it died again.
Welcome to boat life: patience, repairs, repeat.

Why Australia Instead of Indonesia?

We had originally intended to sail to Indonesia from Papua New Guinea, but repairs that are far easier to tackle in Australia intervened. The cutlass bearing on Rhapsody's driveshaft to the prop needs replacement due to extraordinary wear from the engine misalignment that happened during installation in Fiji. (To read our new engine saga - click here ) Fortunately, the mechanic here has an alignment tool we couldn't get in Fiji, so we're in good hands—though it may take a few days before we know the full extent of the work. Sometimes, geography chooses your repair schedule.

Our rather unimpressive first view of the Great Barrier Reef 

A Passage with a Side of Panic

The passage south from PNG to Cairns was a mix of adventure and mild panic. The first 24 hours were rough, with 2-meter waves and wind right in our faces. Then, just as we were supposed to thread our way through the Great Barrier Reef (which, spoiler alert, looked like open water from our vantage point), the wind died down completely. Motorsailing it was (because apparently, the universe likes balance). Of course at 1 AM the chartplotter lost its GPS signal, and all other data, including boat speed, wind speed and most importantly the auto pilot. A heart-stopping moment. I shouted, “Bob, all our instrument information is gone!” Fortunately, we had other devices to confirm our position and an hour and a half later, hand steering with a head lamp illuminating the compass, everything came back of its own accord. Redundancy saw us through again, fortunately the gap in the reef was plenty wide enough.

Cairns: Promenades, Birds, and Helicopters

Cairns itself was a delight. Every morning we walked along the 2 mile long Promenade, enjoying the workout stations along the way. 


Matisse inspired sculptures along the Promenade 

New to us birds included the Willie Wagtail (the Willie Wagtail is now my personal favorite—say it out loud, it just makes you smile), 

Willie Wagtail 

and the incessant whir of sightseeing helicopters landing on a floating dock just outside the marina. Magpies abounded, their wings cutting through the air like miniature drama queens.


 Whimbrels, Curlews and Pelicans all dotted the mud at low tide along the waterfront. 

The ever-present crocodile warnings kept us on our toes, although no crocs were spotted. After a week that saw our GPS and chartplotter issues resolved we headed south for our next appointment. 

Island-Hopping and Greek Mythology

Day-sailing south inside the reef was a slow, sun-drenched parade of islands. Our first stop was Fitzroy Island for a night, followed by Russell Island , and then a three-day stint hiding from high winds behind Orpheus Island (naturally, we researched the Greek myth while there—because why not add a little culture to our dodging of weather?). We only swam on islands that were far enough offshore from mainland Australia to avoid crocodiles—a precaution that unfortunately has become all too common in our recent travels.

Magnetic Island: Koalas and History

Magnetic Island was a highlight. We hiked up to the WWII forts , enjoying incredible views and fascinating history.


 Koalas, introduced to the island in the 1930s as part of a conservation effort, have thrived here. We spotted a mother and her baby perched about seven feet up, just off the main path, perfectly stationary for photos and a little awe. 



Meanwhile, the Willie Wagtail flitted along, giving us the same judgmental side-eye it always does.

The flower and the pod of the Kapok tree



Boatyard Life, Kindness, and Sun

Back at Rosshaven Marina, the heat is no joke. Days spent working on refreshing the Coppercoat on Rhapsody's bottom reminded us we are not as young or resilient as we used to be (heat + manual labor = instant humility). 



Quite a few of the yard workers here are from Africa , who, ironically, find the Australian sun far more intense than home. The people here have been incredibly kind—someone helped us source Coppercoat, and another offered us the use of their car. Small gestures, big impressions (and slightly less walking under the blazing sun - a typical Aussie reception, in our experience. 

Looking Ahead

So yes, our detour through Australia wasn't on the agenda, but we're enjoying it. Soon enough, Rhapsody will be back in the water, and we'll be off again to the Whitsunday Islands, considered the number one cruising destination in all of Oz. 
Koalas spotted, islands hopped, and Rhapsody ready—here’s to whatever is next. 

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