Friday, November 29, 2024

Wrong Turns and Right Views: Settling into Chiang Mai, Thailand


After a short but busy stay in Singapore, we arrived in Chiang Mai, Thailand, ready for the next phase of our travels. It was time to unwind, explore, and... cautiously rebuild our financial footing after the misadventures chronicled in our last post (RIP, Singapore ATM-eaten debit card). With one card left, we were in no mood to gamble with machines and sought reassurance at every step.

Elephant statue overlooking the Old Chiang Mai Moat

The Great Hotel Hunt

Our first challenge came soon after landing. Using airport Wi-Fi, we summoned a Grab (Southeast Asia’s answer to Uber) to take us to our hotel. Or so we thought. Upon arrival, we spent 15 minutes fruitlessly searching for the key box to our Airbnb. A sinking realization dawned: we were at the Astra, but our booking was at Astra Sky River. Not the same place.

With no local SIM card and only patchy memory of the map, we set off on foot, luggage in tow. Fortunately, the city was calm, with little traffic, making the six-block trek manageable despite uneven sidewalks.  

Eventually, we arrived at Astra Sky River, whose rooftop infinity pool immediately justified every step of our journey.

Day 2: Adventures in ATM Survival

Having survived our hotel misadventure, we turned our attention to an even more pressing matter: money. With one debit card already sacrificed to an ATM in Singapore, we weren’t about to risk our last remaining card without a solid plan.

Our mission was clear: find a bank with an ATM and someone who could rescue our card if it got swallowed. We wandered around the Chiang Mai Central Airport mall, enquiring at various banks only to be told they couldn't help us if the card disappeared into the void of the ATM. After a few false starts, we hit the jackpot in the far corner of the basement of the mall: a bank officer who assured us she had a key to the machine and would retrieve our card if anything went wrong. Feeling equal parts nervous and hopeful, we inserted the card. Would it work? Would it disappear into the ATM abyss?

Watching our card disappear into the machine felt like a high-stakes magic trick—we held our breath until it reappeared, along with the cash. Crisis averted. As a bonus, Charles Schwab managed to deliver a replacement for the missing card in just two days. Faster than some deliveries back in the US!

Swimming with a View

This is less than half of the pool, up on the 17th floor. 

The Sky River pool was as remarkable as advertised. Stretching across the rooftops of two buildings, it offered sweeping views of Chiang Mai’s flat cityscape and the dramatic mountains that rise just beyond its edge.

View of the mountains beyond. A bit of a smoky day - preview of what is to come from February to April. Chiang Mai is known for the extremely smoky skies at that time of year from farmers burning their fields.

Swimming laps in such a setting felt meditative— even swimming around  the parade of selfie-takers lining the pool's edge. To their credit, they moved aside every time I swam past, possibly fearing an errant splash would ruin their Instagram moment.

The pool at night. I never got to swim at this time of day, it would have been fun!

Exploring Old Chiang Mai

On one of our first days, we explored Chiang Mai’s Old Town, a square-shaped area surrounded by a moat and the remains of an ancient defensive wall.

One of the largest sections of the wall still standing.

The city’s ancient walls, originally built in the 13th century under King Mengrai, were designed to keep out marauding armies and other medieval nuisances. Today, only portions of the brick wall remain, though the gates—restored to their former glory—offer a glimpse into the city’s storied past. 

A turret at the corner of the city. 

As we strolled along the moat (which, for the record, is more decorative than defensive these days), we marveled at the contrast between the centuries-old bricks and the modern chaos inside the Old Town.

Mapping our walk on the Strava app, a very square hike!

More elephants by the moat

Walking along the perimeter, we admired the ancient brickwork, the elephant statues adorning bridges over the moat, and the fountains adding charm to the surroundings. Signs sternly warned against climbing the wall, and while we weren’t tempted, we could see how the invitation to “scale history” might appeal some.

Three languages and a picture to get the point across- Don’t walk on the wall!

Inside the Old Town, the narrow streets bustled with scooters, tuk-tuks, and tourists. Morning was relatively calm, though it was clear that most of the activity—and the famed night markets—came alive after sunset. The juxtaposition of the tranquil moat and the busy streets within was striking, showcasing a blend of old and new that defines the city.

The wall at night with a wonderful tree

Market Misadventures

Chiang Mai is famous for its night markets, so we intended to brave the crowds at the Sunday Walking Market. Big mistake. What I had hoped would be a leisurely stroll through handmade crafts and street food turned out to be a full-contact sport. The market was so crowded it felt less like browsing and more like being swept along by a human tidal wave. We had visions of leisurely exploring handcrafted goods and watching artisans, but the reality was more “don’t get trampled.” Even the local newspapers commented on the overwhelming crowds the next day, so at least we weren’t imagining it.

Bob making a song request, either that or he is asking if he can borrow the guitar.

Next Stop: More exploration 

Despite the hiccups (or maybe because of them), Chiang Mai has already proven to be an unforgettable experience. Between the ancient walls, the rooftop infinity pool, and the drama of modern banking, we’ve had plenty to keep us entertained.

These shops are everywhere.  Almost as many Cannabis shops as there are Thai Massage Parlors. All kinds of massages are offered, including those with "happy endings"

For now, we’re settling into Chiang Mai and preparing for our house-sitting gig, where two medium-sized dogs are waiting to take over the narrative of our trip. But that’s a story for another post.

Seeking out rainbows wherever we can find them.
I think I will adopt that as my new life philosophy. 

We love to hear your comments.